Chicago (Italian) - Buona Terra

Buona Terra
2535 North California, Chicago, Illinois; Phone 773-289-3800
Date of Review: August, 2008

It is hard for me to admit that I have lived in Logan Square for the last 6 years and have never set foot in this restaurant. Not even one time. I thought about it and planned on it many times, but somehow it never happened even though I love local, neighborhood establishments. Well, I finally made it (twice in 2 weeks) and found out what I have been missing. Buona Terra is a true find.

Buona Terra is on California Avenue off of Logan Boulevard in one of Logan Square’s restaurant “lanes” if you prefer to define it that way. It is next to Starbucks, Hachi’s Kitchen and Rustik. It is a small restaurant with a decent size al fresco dining area out front and a small bar. The dining area is probably 40-50 inside the restaurant, not counting the patio. The tables are close together making for an intimate dining environment and they have impressive artwork.

The menu descriptions jumped out at me as everything sounded like something I want to try. The complimentary bread takes a while to come out but it is worth the wait as it is warm and crusty and is served with a tasty minced garlic, olive oil and cheese mixture. For appetizers, the good sized portion of grilled baby octopus with a tri color salad in a balsamic sauce is excellent. It has a wonderful grilled flavor in a nice sauce and the endive and radicchio in the salad are a great accompaniment to the grilled octopus. The grilled calamari is also solid and is served with some nicely picked greens and sauce. The mista is a simple mixed salad in a red wine vinegar dressing.

For entrees, the linguine with white clam sauce is amazing. It is served with bits of garlic amid nice linguini with perfectly cooked, chewy clams. The Spaghetti al Gamberetti includes rock shrimp, tomatoes, spinach, olive oil and garlic. There was nothing over the top about this dish but I loved it. It was simple with good ingredients and great taste. The Fettucine Primavera is out of this world. Served with perfectly cooked vegetables and a wonderful spicy marinara sauce, I was blown away by this pasta dish. We also had the grilled, pounded chicken breast with herbs, tomatoes, mozzarella and arugula and the Vitello Monte Carlo which had sautéed veal medallions with prosciutto and fontina cheese in a sherry wine sauce. Both were excellent and the veal dish could compete with veal dishes from any of Chicago’s top Italian restaurants. I have also tried the salmon served with an avocado relish and roasted potatoes and vegetables. Wow! This was a daily special and I was impressed with a large piece of salmon cooked perfectly with a refreshing avocado relish on top. The roasted vegetables were excellent and the potatoes were roasted so firmly you would have thought they were fried. They were almost like a little potato cake.

For desserts, the profiteroles with vanilla gelato and chocolate sauce are solid and the sorbet served in a peach (or a lemon, coconut or orange) is fantastic.

I have been impressed with the friendly and helpful servers. On once occasion, our server took the liberty of splitting the salad for us (without asking) and they seem to be on top of things as they always seem to arrive with what we need at precisely the right time.

The prices at Buona Terra are quite reasonable with pastas in the $10-15 range and only 1 entrée over $20. On one visit, we had a bottle of white wine, 2 beers, 1 appetizer, 2 salads and 4 entrees and paid $170 with tax and tip. Overall, the price and quality of the food is fantastic. The $22 3 course price fixe Thursday special is one of the best values in Chicago as the entire menu (including specials) is available for selection. You cannot beat this value.