Chicago (American) - Publican

Publican
837 W. Fulton Market (at N. Green Street), Chicago, Illinois; Phone 312-733-9555
Date of Review: April, 2009

A new restaurant by the owners of Blackbird and Publican, this is one hot West Loop spot. You will be impressed by the décor and layout of the restaurant immediately and while your road may have some twists and an occasional bump in the road, your dining experience is likely to be one you would like to repeat.

Publican reminds me of something from my travels but I am not sure what. The 100 plus large round bulb lights hanging from the ceiling provide uniformity to the place that feels like Germany. However, the long wooden beer pulls for the draught beer remind me of a monastery in Belgium. The large wooden communal dining tables remind me of pictures of the last supper. The wooden booths with private closing doors that take up one wall of the restaurant are like nothing I have ever seen. For someone who sits all day, the bar tables void of chairs are a refreshing way to enjoy a drink while you wait for your guests and the seats at the bar are actual settings, plate and silverware in place and all. All of the servers are knowledgeable about the diverse menu and many beer options available and they have an air of professionalism as they are all dressed in doctor like jackets adorned with the name of the restaurant in the upper right hand corner. They add more chic to an already cool place and this doesn’t even mention the bathroom area which is one of the best in Chicago.

The beer list is extensive with 10-12 very unordinary draught options and a bottle list loaded with high alcohol content beers that would appeal to anyone who is a fan of the Map Room or Hopleaf. The menu is a mix of tapas style appetizer sharing plates and larger plates that can be shared communally or taken as a personal entrée. This restaurant is definitely the sort of place where you order a few things and sample them amongst a group. The menu is anything but ordinary making it somewhat difficult to comment positively or negatively on some of the menu items. If you have never had any reason to think you would eat pork brain and never have, it is hard to say whether you like it or not. We did order the pork rinds (prepared with cider vinegar and salt) and some cheese and bread to munch on while having a beer. Pork rinds are an acquired taste but I found this version to be tasty, well seasoned and freshly fried. The cheese was outstanding and was served with some warm, chewy brown bread that was out of this world.

The tasty house pickles include a cabbage pickle, sweet bread and butter pickle and a jicama like pickle and go great with a beer. The assortment of 3 hams included Serrano ham and 2 others. One was outstanding and the other 2 were average but it was way overpriced at $18. The seafood dishes including the mussels and Basque stew (salt cod, shrimp, octopus, clams, mussels, tomatoes, oranges, etc.) are outstanding and not to be missed. The country rib was absolutely succulent as it looks like 2 big pork chops and tastes like heaven. The steak tartare was very good (much better then when I had it in Paris) and was served with their outstanding frites. By the way, the full order of fries is served in a cone just like in Amsterdam or Belgium along with some tasty garlic mayonnaise although the version of fries with eggs served on top offers a different variation that is just as good. The pork brain was OK. I have never had it before so it is hard to say much about it but after a few bites, I had enough. The half (or whole) chicken with summer sausage served on top of fries is scrumptious. Like many, chicken has a tendency to bore me at times, but not here. The chicken was juicy and full of flavor. It is one of the best dishes I’ve had at the Publican. We were all excited about the Potee which features pork loin, sausage and oxtail shoulder with carrots and pearl onions. Unfortunately, we were disappointed. For $25, we expected a good size portion but this would have not even sufficed as an entrée for one person. The pork loin and oxtail shoulder were good but the sausage was average and the dish overpriced. Another dish we tried that I highly recommend is the beets with walnuts and mozzarella. The beets were sweet and so fresh that could see their veins (almost like a tomato) and the mozzarella was some of the best I have ever had as the taste was so pure it was hard to describe. The bread pudding for dessert was good, but nothing worth elaborating on.

On one visit, we had 16 beers (some quite expensive), 2 desserts and an assortment of appetizers and entrees and we ended up with a bill of $290 which included tax, but not tip. On another visit, a party of 10 shared an assortment of dishes and the bill came to $77 a head with everything included. You can eat for cheaper at the Publican but you do pay for the quality of the ingredients which are mostly local and organic. All in all, I really liked the place and am looking forward to another visit.