Handlebar
2311 W. North Avenue, Chicago, Illinois; Phone 773-384-9546
Date of Review: February, 2009
Handlebar is one of those places that tries to be cool and actually is. What they are doing with their beers and innovative (predominantly vegetarian) dishes makes it more than worth taking a look at. Located on a slightly less busy section of North Avenue, Handlebar is perfectly placed an earshot away from the hustle and bustle of Wicker Park and just close enough to feel the edginess of Logan Square and Humboldt Park. Based on the cool, slightly alterative layout of the interior of the restaurant (they also have an outdoor dining area in the back), I would say it is located right where it belongs. They have a small bar with counter space for about 10 with many different stickers and other paraphernalia affixed to the cabinets behind the bar.
They have an impressive beer menu with many micro brew beers and Belgian ales that would raise the eyebrows of those who frequent the Map Room or Quenchers nearby. They also have excellent fresh squeezed lemonade with free refills. For appetizers, the chips and salsa are solid and come with 2 homemade salsas (a green tomatillo and a wonderful pico de gallo). A much better option though is the Chili Quesadillas. This large quesadilla is filled with veggie chili, cheese and avocado and is served with pico de gallo and tortilla chips. The chili is the key to the dish as it has a nice flavor with just the right amount of spice. The portion is large enough to have as an entrée (which I did once).
For entrees, I enjoyed the Black Beans Maduro which features sweet plantains layered with brown rice, jack cheese and beans with a spicy chipotle tomato sauce. The combination of flavors with the sauce and sweet plantains really works and I found myself enjoying the dish even more as I got deeper into it. The fish tacos include 3 large tacos, some veggie chili and a nice size scoop of brown rice. Filled with grilled catfish, jack cheese, red cabbage, avocado and served with tomatillo salsa and sour cream, this dish is unexceptional, yet a solid bet for a filling dinner. All of their side dishes sound very appetizing but the only ones I have tried are the collard greens and the French fries. The collard greens were only ok but the fresh cut fries are fantastic, some of the best I have had in Chicago. I am much more cognizant of the quality of fries these days as I try and avoid this unhealthy indulgence and it is kind of a downer when you splurge to have them and they are just average. You won’t have that problem at Handlebar.
The prices are pretty reasonable with most sandwiches (served with 1 side) priced between 8 and 9 dollars. The entrees are reasonable too as there is nothing on the menu over $15 and most are priced around $10. On one visit, I had lemonade, chips and salsa and the Black Beans Maduro and my total bill was $17 with tax, not including tip. On another visit, we had the quesadillas, fish tacos, veggie burger special (very good), side of fries and 2 beers for $44 with tax, but no tip. All of the portions are large, ensuring that you get a lot of food for the buck.
They also have an impressive brunch menu.
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